Nadia’s Nine 5.10a, Willow Springs
Climbed on July 22, 2022 & May 17, 2025.
Fun Rating: Supreme Fun
I’ve just gotten back from a trip to the Red River Gorge with my wife for our anniversary, and as much as I enjoy going back to my roots and seeing how the Red has changed in the last 6(!) years, I spent most of the time that we were climbing wishing that I were still climbing in the nice dry, non-muddy, vertical terrain of the desert. There’s something to be said for only needing to worry about dry sand and very very occasional ticks instead of mud, sand, and constant ticks. I also think that something changed about the soul of the Red when Miguels switched over to the digital ordering system instead of the printed out and hand-cut paper pizza order pages, but that’s probably just nostalgia and being a little baby outside climber at the time talking. This was the first weekend back, and I had climbed some sport at Jabba with Megan the day before, but this was going to be my first multipitch day back and I was stoked. The last time Kevin and I were out we did Bourbon Street and I was really looking forward to this day.
We had originally meant to get on Healy’s Haunted House. We had picked this target with the assumption that it would be a typical mid-late May day in Red Rock. You can imagine our surprise and consternation when we stepped out of the car at the White Rock trailhead and were blasted with a stiff, cold wind, especially as we each only had a windbreaker as an emergency “oh I guess it’s a little chilly” layer. After making it as far as the beginning of the downhill approach to the crag, Kevin and I looked at each other and had a come to Jesus moment about whether a fully shaded and chimney-focused route was the right choice for an unseasonably cold day. Our deliberation was short, honest, and filled with whinging about how we hadn’t expected this (we should have looked at the forecast for anything other than the rain icon), and we made the call to pack up and find something else to climb.
Myself at the start of the incredibly fun second pitch.
As Kevin was expertly navigating the tourist traffic in the loop, the distinctive cobra hood of Nadia’s Nine came into view and I had an epiphany measured with only a small amount of sinister desire to sandbag my friend on what was one of my first gear “10a’s” in the canyon. For those of you that haven’t been on the route, or haven’t heard of it, it is a 1977 route that Herbst put up with Mark Moore. It’s split into 2 pitches, the first being the harder of the two by some way. It begins with an awkwardly flared corner that you can climb a few different ways. There’s a photo of Herbst facing climber’s right, which is the way I decided to climb it on follow this time, but the first time I climbed it I was facing climber’s left. Once you’ve managed to get your feet onto the one good place for them in this first stretch, you need to navigate a spooky layback and then a very awkward roof pull into yet another v-slot corner. I found myself laying down fully horizontal as I navigated this roof, but some solid jamming and creative chimney technique took me to where I needed to be. I don’t remember this part being as hard on my onsight a few years ago, but it gave me the most trouble of the whole climb this time out.
Kevin crushing the pitch 1 roof.
Once I was firmly ensconced with Kevin at the rather comfortable ledge splitting up the two pitches, we swapped gear over and I was off. The second pitch starts with an easy bit of offwidth climbing, probably about 15’ or so of chicken wings and heel-toe stacks spits you out on another small ledge just before the money. Above you is another very small stretch of chimney/stemming that leads into 4s and then splitter 2 and 3s to the roof. This was even better than I remember it being, and I remember it being stellar. Perfect hands with just enough variation that everyone should be able to find the jams, and enough verticality to keep you engaged without being gripped. Once you get to the top and navigate your way out of the crack and into a wide stem rest, you’re presented with what is the most visually striking part of the route, an undercling traverse on the cobra hood itself for a few feet to an easy mantle. Far spookier looking than it ends up being while your climbing, it’s really just a couple slippery moves and you’re home free. There’s an easy walkoff but we chose to rap off of the cord I’d left there a few years ago (still looking quite good, thanks shade.)
Myself in the perfect hands section.
A much more standard writeup and route walkthrough than normal on this one, but given I climbed it again just a couple of days ago, everything is still fresh in my mind. I really think that more people should get on this climb, the gear is all there for you, the cruxes are challenging but safe, and the creativity required to climb it clean gives you a route that sticks in your memory for a long time. I think it’s a little sandbagged at 5.10a, but it’s a Herbst route, so that comes with the territory to some degree. The feature you climb is gorgeous and you get a great view of the loop from the anchors of the second pitch, so it really does hit all the notes you’re looking for in a great Red Rock route outside of the fact it’s only 2 pitches. The approach only taking 15-20 minutes helps a lot too!
Kevin towards the top of the second pitch, before the hands traverse.
All in all, maybe not the first gear 5.10 I’d recommend, but for anyone climbing at the grade this is a must do. I know some climbers who are much stronger than me that have flailed on this, so it’s not a gimme, but if you’re looking for something to try hard on that will give you some really interesting terrain and really high quality movement, Nadia’s Nine is definitely what you’re looking for.
Also, look at this cool cave at the base I forgot about.
